FLY FISHING ROD SETUP 101, all in one guide

Fly fishing is like entering a serene world full of natural wonders. If you’re just starting out on this adventure, don’t worry!

Our article is your road-map through the basics of setting up your fly fishing gear. We’ve got the lowdown on everything you need to know, from the gear essentials to casting tips.

Whether you’re a newbie aiming for your first perfect cast or a seasoned angler curious about the finer details, our article is your go-to guide.

KNOW ABOUT FLY FISHING:

Fly fishing is a unique way of fishing that relies on special gear like a fly rod, fly line, reel, and artificial flies, not the typical bait. People have been doing this for ages in different parts of the world. It’s a versatile sport, and you can target almost any kind of fish using this method.

FLY FISHING GEAR SETUP:

• Fly Fishing Rod
• Fly Fishing Reel
• Fly Fishing Line
• Fly Fishing Line Backing
• Fly Leader
• Tippet
• Flies

DIAGRAM OF FLY-FISHING ROD SETUP:

TIPS TO OVERCOME COMMON CHALLENGES:

Here are the tips to address common challenges in fly fishing rod setup

• Practice The Knot Tying: Practice tying knots regularly, starting with basic knots and progressing to more advanced ones.
• Improve Line Management: Regularly practice handling the fly line to gain better control and precision in casting.
• Choose Leaders Wisely: Read this article to select leaders and tippets that match the fishing conditions you’ll encounter.
• Match Gear Appropriately: Seek advice to ensure your rod, reel, and line are well-matched for efficient casting.
• Seek Balance in Components: Experiment with different combinations to achieve a balanced setup for smoother casting experiences.

SELECTION OF FLY ROD: 

fly rod weight:

Picking a fly rod is all about matching it up with the fish you want to catch. It’s just like picking the right club for a golf shot. Each club fits different situations, right?

Well, in fly fishing, it’s bit similar.

Fly rods come in different “weights.” But it’s not about how heavy the rod is; it’s about the kind of line it’s best for.

So, these rod weights match up with the weight of the fly line they’re meant to cast. Lighter rod weights, like a 3, are for lighter lines and smaller fish, perfect for those cozy mountain streams where little trout hang out.

Now, if you’re aiming for big fish, you’ll need a strong rod, like a heavy one meant for that purpose. It’s similar to using a bigger golf club for a long shot, you wouldn’t try to hit a long drive with a putter, right?

If you try to catch a big fish with a light rod meant for small ones, it’s like trying to measure something long with a toothpick, it won’t work well, and that rod might break, especially if you’re going for something hefty like a steel-head.

So, the formula is simple:

• Low fly rod weight number = light fly lines = Small fish
• Large fly rod weight number = heavier fly line = bigger fish

If you’re after bigger fish, you’ll need a heavier rod with a higher weight number, like an 8 or 9.

Here’s the guide for selecting the weight according to fish species and water body.

Learn more about trout fishing with fly rod, here

fly rod action:

When you’re choosing a fly rod, there’s this thing called “action.” It’s about how much the rod bends when you cast. So, if you’ve got fast action rods, they’re stiff and bend a lot at the tip. They’re great for powerful casts, especially if it’s windy.

Then there are medium action rods, they bend a bit more in the middle, giving you a nice balance of power and flexibility.

But if you’re starting out, I’d recommend a moderate action rod. Why? Because they’re versatile and way easier to cast than those super-fast ones.

And get this, the slower the action, the more forgiving they are when you cast, letting you delicately present those flies to the fish. Starting with a moderate action rod? That’s like stepping into casting without a ton of extra challenges.

Quick Tip: From my experience, a 5 to 6-weight rod with medium to fast action is like my best all-around tool. It’s super versatile. And help me catch small fish with it, but it’s also strong enough to handle some bigger ones. 

fly rod length:

Consider a fly rod as a long tool for casting. The longer the rod, the easier it is to throw your line far away.

A long rod helps you control how your line sits on the water and reaches tricky spots where fish hang out.

But…

Longer rods can be a pain in small places with lots of branches. That’s when shorter rods are needed, they’re great for fitting into tight spots.

A 9-foot rod? That’s like your go-to for most fishing. It’s long enough to cast well and still lets you move around easily in most fishing spots.

Sometimes, for really far casts, people use rods up to 14 feet, especially for specific fishing techniques.

But for most fishing adventures, a 9-footer is your best buddy, strikes a good balance between length and flexibility.

Rod types:

Single handed rod:

Most anglers use single-handed rods for casting, surprising. These rods come in different weights and lengths, from 6 to 10 feet.

They’re awesome for gentle casts and super accurate throws.

But when you’re dealing with really long casts, big fish, or rivers where you can’t do a regular back cast, that’s where Spey and switch rods step in.

They’re the go-to for those kinds of situations.

Spey rod:

Spey rods are the long ones, about 12 to 14 feet. They’re special because they’re used for a technique called “Spey” casting. Instead of doing a back cast, you load the rod with the line resting on the water.

This helps handle heavier lines and bigger flies for catching bigger fish.

The best thing about Spey rods! They’re champs at casting really far without needing space for a back cast.

So, even if there’s a lot of brush behind you, you can still cast across the river. They’re super popular for steel-head fishing because they’re great with heavy gear like sinking lines, split shot, and indicators.

With Spey rods, anglers use both hands on the rod for casting. It’s like a different style of fishing, perfect for those situations where you need to cover more ground without needing lots of space for your back cast.

Switch rod:

The switch rods are a bit shorter, around 10 to 12.5 feet.

Like Spey rods, they’re used for that “Spey” casting technique and require both hands for casting.

Here’s the difference,

• Switch rods are more versatile than Spey rods. Being shorter gives them a bit more finesse, which means they handle lighter lines and rigs better. They’re great for those times when you need a lighter touch.

• Additionally, switch rods can sometimes be cast single-handedly too, unlike Spey rods. It’s like having a versatile tool that can handle different fishing situations, whether you’re casting with both hands or, just one.

SELECTION OF FLY REEL:

Reels are basically a storage spot for your fly line, and it’s crucial to keep them in good shape with a smooth drag system. That drag system helps the line move freely when you cast or when you’re reeling in a fish.

QUICK TIP: When you set up your reel, if you’re right-handed, hold your rod with your right hand and wind the reel with your left.

The size of the reel usually matches the size of your rod.

For smaller rods (sizes 0-4), you won’t use the reel’s drag much. You’ll mostly pull in the fish by hand, a move called “stripping.”

But when you’re using larger rods (size 4 and up), the reel’s drag becomes more important. When you hook a fish, you’ll want to get that line tight on the reel to let the drag works by handling the pressure on the fish.

Speaking of quality, when you’re into larger rod sizes (6 and up), go for a good quality reel made of machined aluminum with a sealed drag, especially if you’re planning to fish in saltwater. It’s a must.

Reel size matters too. For smaller rods, 50 yards of backing and fly line is good.

But for bigger ones, you might need reels with over 150 yards for freshwater fishing and even 300 yards for saltwater.

QUICK TIP FOR SHOPPING A REEL: Take your fly rod along when getting a reel. You want them to balance nicely together in your hand. It reduces strain on your wrist during those long fishing sessions.

Here’s a bonus for you:

One of the important factors about some reels is that you can swap spools. That means you can have one spool with a floating line and another with a sinking line. It’s not a must, but it’s a nice bonus!

There are two main types of reel systems: click & pawl and disc drag.

The classic fly reel:

Click & pawl reels are those classic ones that make that satisfying clicking sound when a fish pulls out your line. They work on a simple mechanical drag system that’s pretty reliable.

The disc drags system reel:

Disc drag reels are more modern. They work a bit like the brakes in a car. They can offer a wider range of drags and generally smoother ones compared to click & pawl.

SELECTION OF FLY LINE:

The fly line is like your magic tool for casting and presenting flies just right. Usually, it’s between 80 to 90 feet long.

But here’s the thing:

They come in all sorts of shapes, tapers, and types to suit different fishing needs.
When you buy a fly rod, it usually comes with the right fly line matched to it.

For beginners, that’s a big relief, less stress jumping into the activity.

As you get more experience, you’ll notice your casting style leads you to pick specific fly lines.

For example, when I’m using a faster action 6-wt. fly rod, I prefer to use a 7 weight forward fly line. But with my medium to slow action fiberglass 6-wt. fly rod, a 6-wt. forward fly line feels just right.

QUICK TIP FOR STARTERS WITH 4 TO 6 WEIGHT FLY ROD: Go for a “weight forward floating fly line” that’s ONE size higher than your rod weight. It’ll give you a bit more ease when casting.

Quick fly line info: They’re rated by the weight in grains of the first 30 feet of line (minus the tip), which gives you a line weight number. So, for instance, a 3 weight line equals about 100 grains (+/- 10%).

There are different types of fly lines;

Floating fly lines:

These fly lines do exactly what their name says, they float!

They’re super common and versatile. If you’re using dry flies, these are your go-to.

But guess what?

You can also use them for wet flies and for other fishing techniques.

Sink tip line:

These are a mixture between a floating and a full sink line. Most of the line floats, except for the end that sinks. They let you control how deep your fly goes. Great for wet flies in deeper waters or strong currents

Full sink line:

With these lines, the whole fly line sinks at a rate mentioned on the box. They’re perfect for fast-moving and deep waters. When you need to get your flies deep to reach the fish, these are your pals.

Saltwater fly line:

Saltwater is more buoyant, so these lines are denser, making them easier to cast in windy conditions.

While most freshwater lines work fine in saltwater, having a denser line in windy saltwater conditions can be a game-changer.

SELECTION OF TAPERS:

 Weight forward:

This one’s the most popular. It’s designed with more weight towards the casting end, making it easier to cast farther. There are variations with different levels of aggressiveness, the more aggressive, the more weight closer to the fly, allowing for longer casts.

But…

Delicate fly presentations can be a bit trickier with super aggressive weight forward lines. Some specialized weight forward lines are perfect for saltwater fishing.

Double taper:

With this taper, the weight sits in the middle of the line, tapering out equally in both directions. It’s awesome for presenting flies, and offers flexibility, if one end gets damaged, you can easily reverse the line on your rod. Casting-wise, it’s easier than level lines but a tad tougher than weight forward lines.

LEVEL LINE:

These are not as popular. They’re cheaper than tapered lines but harder to cast. They don’t offer much advantage and can be a bit tough on casting. But hey, they’re easier on the wallet!

SELECTION OF LEADER:

The leader is that clear bit connected to the end of your fly line. It’s a bit heavy where it joins the fly line and then tapers down in weight and thickness to where the tippet attaches. Typically, leaders are around 9 feet long.

Many leaders come pre-tapered. That means you get one smooth 9-foot piece of line that gradually gets thinner towards the end. A lot of anglers love using these pre-tapered leaders because they’re simple and perform well.

But here’s another trick: some anglers like to connect multiple pieces of leaders at different weights to create their own custom taper for the fly leader. It’s like creating your own recipe for the perfect setup!

SELECTION OF TIPPET:

The tippet is a thin and light line that connects to the end of the leader and then to your fly. Its main job is to be as lightweight as possible to help you land the fish you’re after. See, the thinner the line, the harder it is for the fish to spot, and it creates less resistance in the water.

Tippets and leaders come in different sizes, and there’s a system to label them.

Here’s a basic chart that helps you understand the sizes:

• 0X: Thick, used for larger flies or bigger fish.
• 1X to 4X: Medium thickness, great for a variety of flies and fish sizes.
• 5X to 8X: Thin, perfect for smaller flies and more delicate presentations.

The idea is to match the tippet size to your fly and the fish you’re targeting. It’s like picking the right tool for the job, the right tippet size helps make your fishing experience smoother.

Here’s the guide table:

THE BACKING:

Fly line backing is a trusty support line. It’s thin but super strong, and it’s the first line you put on your fly reel. This line plays a crucial role when you’re fighting a fish that grabs your fly. When that happens and the fish takes off, the backing allows you to keep playing the fish even if it pulls out line beyond your fly line.

It’s like an extra safety net when the fish makes a big run.

And let me tell you, there’s not much more thrilling in fishing than when a fish takes you so far that you start reeling out of your backing line.

It’s like an adrenaline rush, the excitement of battling that fish and seeing it test the limits of your gear!

SELECTION OF FLY-FISHING FLIES: 

Flies are the heart of fly fishing and they come in two main types:

• Dry flies
• Wet flies

Both wet and dry flies come in various patterns that anglers use based on the type of fish they’re after and the fishing conditions. Each type of fly has its own charm and strategy, making fly fishing a diverse experience.

There are tons of different fly patterns out there, but these two categories, wet and dry flies, cover the main styles

Wet Flies: These are the ones that get wet, they’re meant to sink below the water’s surface. Think streamers, nymph patterns, eggs, worms, and more. Since most fish feed below the surface, using wet flies gives you a great chance of catching fish in almost any fishing scenario.

Dry Flies: These are the classic fly-fishing image. Suppose, trout rising to nab a fly resting gently on the water surface. Dry flies are designed to float on the water, tempting fish to come up for a meal. They’re all about that beautiful surface action.

STRING A FLY ROD:

Stringing a fly rod involves setting up the rod and reel with the right fishing line to get you casting and catching fish. If you’re new to fly fishing, a combo package can be a fantastic starting point. But if you’ve got your own gear or want to assemble it yourself, here’s a guide to help you set up your rod and reel.

Typically, a beginner setup comes pre-strung, which is handy to see how it’s done before you’re on your own.

But in case you need to rig your own gear, here’s what you need to do:

STEP 1: Assembly of fly-fishing rod:

Some fly rods have little dots to help align the sections. They’re super handy! When putting the sections together, start by inserting and twisting them simultaneously. The point where the sections connect is called a ferrule.

Begin with the sections slightly twisted out of alignment and then twist them into place as they come together.

To make disassembly easier later, I’ve started using candle wax on the male part of the ferrule. Just a few swipes of wax can prevent rods from getting stuck together. 

Once all sections are connected and the guides (those little rings along the rod) are in line, you’re good to go to the next step.

STEP 2: Attachment of fly-fishing reel:

Attaching the reel to your fly rod’s reel seat is an important step:

Know Your Hand:

Determine which hand you’ll use to cast and reel. For instance, if you’re right-handed like me, you’ll cast with your right hand and reel in with your left. This might be different from how spin casters set up their rods.

Check the Reel Seat:

Look closely at the front part of the reel seat. Underneath the cork, there’s usually a cut-out called a stationary hood. If you cast with your right hand, place the reel foot into this inlet, with the reel crank on the left side.

Secure the Reel:

Once the reel foot is snug in the inlet, either slide or screw the moving hood over the rear part of the reel foot and tighten it securely.

Check Reel Direction:

Give the reel crank a spin to ensure it’s moving smoothly. For a right-handed caster, the spool should spin easily counter-clockwise when reeling in. If needed, you can usually switch the retrieve direction on most fly reels.

STEP 3: Attachment of line backing:

When setting up a fly fishing reel, the first line you’ll load is the “backing.”

Here’s a simple guide to help you figure out how much backing you’ll need:

For reel weights:

• 1–2 weight: 0 to 25 yards
• 3–5 weight: 25 to 50 yards
• 5–7 weight: 50 to 100 yards
• 7–9 weight: 100 to 200 yards

You’ll attach the backing to the base of the spool arbor using a knot like Albright knot or arbor knot, but don’t stress too much about the specific knot, just ensure it’s secure.

I prefer using the arbor knot.

As you reel in the backing, make sure it lies flat on the spool without touching the reel body. This might take a bit of trial and error to get it just right.

Here’s how you make it.

STEP 4: Attachment of fly line:

Attaching the backing to the fly line is crucial.

Use an Albright knot to join the end of the backing to the right end of your fly line, which isoften marked in the packaging.

When attaching backing to the fly line, the nail knot is often suggested.

You can also use Albright knot, if nail knot is toughfor you.

I like using nail knot.

Here’s a simple way to tie it:

• Take the end of your backing and make an overhand knot, leaving a long tag end.
• Pass the fly line through the knot and start wrapping it around the backing and its own line.
• Do about 7-10 wraps, then take the tag end of the fly line and thread it back through the loop you made at the beginning.
• Moisten it with a bit of water or saliva to help it slide tight.
• Gently pull both ends, the backing and fly line, together.
• Trim off the tag ends, and you’re good to go.

STEP 5: Attachment of Leader:

So, when it comes to this part, it can take two different paths. Some fly lines come with a loop at the end, which makes things easier. You can attach the leader by tying a simple knot to this loop.

Use the following steps of video. 

But, if your fly line doesn’t have a loop, you’ll need to repeat the previous steps just like you did when connecting the fly line to the backing. It’s all about using a basic knot, aiming for a smaller one for a neater setup.

Take help from this tutorial, 

STEP 6: Attachment of Tippet:

Tying the tippet onto the leader can be a bit tedious, and there are different methods to do it. I like a faster option that might not create the tightest knot but always holds up. I use a double or triple surgeon’s knot. It’s quick and allows for super-fast switches between tippet and leader.

Step 6: Attachment of fly to tippet:

Attach the fly to tippet by clinch knot. Clinch Knot is a key knot for fly fishing.

Here’s how you tie it:

• Slide about 3 to 4 inches of tippet through the hook eye.
• Wrap the tag end around the main line about 5 to 7 times.
• Thread the tag end through the small loop near the hook eye formed by the tippet.
• Hold the hook and tagline in one hand and the main line in the other. Make sure the knot is lubricated.
• Pull the hook and main line apart to tighten the knot.
• Trim the tag end about 1/16 inch from the knot.

FLY FISHING SETUP FOR DRY FLIES:

When you’re fishing with dry flies, it’s pretty straightforward. You’ll need a weight forward fly line, a tapered leader (around 4x to 6x), and about 12 to 16 inches of tippet. Attach your classic dry fly to the tippet.

QUICK TIP: Grab some fly floatants, like GINK (a gel), and apply it to your dry flies before you start fishing. It helps them float better on the water

FLY FISHING SETUP FOR NYMPH:

For nymph fishing, things are a bit different. Nymphs are underwater flies, and to make them work, you’ll want to add some weight to your fly or leader so they sink. Most fish like to hang out near the bottom of the water, close to things that break the current. The goal is to get your fly right in front of the fish’s nose.

Here’s a neat trick: consider using fluorocarbon line. It’s almost invisible to fish underwater, and it sinks too! Grab a spool of either 4X or 5X when you visit a fly shop.

Here’s a simple way to set up your nymphing gear:

• Tie a 9-ft. or longer tapered leader (around 3X to 5X) made of fluorocarbon.
• Then, attach about 24 to 36 inches of fluorocarbon tippet via the double surgeon’s knot we talked about earlier.
• Finally, tie the fly at the end of the tippet, and you’re all set for nymph fishing.

Make double surgeon knot with the help of this tutorial. 

FLY FISHING SETUP FOR STREAMER:

When you’re using streamers for fly fishing, these flies are all about movement. If you’re fishing in still water, you’ll use a technique called “stripping,” which is basically pulling the fishing line in with the help of hand. But in moving water, you can use a mix of stripping and the water’s current to give your fly its action.

My go-to setup for streamer fishing in still water involves using a floating fly line paired with a weighted streamer.

I like to use a long 2X to 4X tapered leader, around 9 to 12 feet long.

Why? 

Because, this longer leader helps the weighted streamer sink to just the right depth. On this leader, I’ll add about 3 feet of 3X fluorocarbon tippet.

When I cast this setup out, I’ll let it sink for a few seconds.

This pause is crucial because it allows the streamer to sink to different depths in the water. Changing how long I let it sink before I start moving it is a great way to figure out where the fish are hanging out in the water column.

KNOW WHEN TO SWITCH YOUR FLIES DURING FLY FISHING:

There are times when fish show you tantrums. 

Really, they just don’t want what you’re offering, no matter how good your bait or fly is. 

Choosy fish. Right! 

It happens, and when it does, take a moment and relax, and after few minutes start again. 

But there are also times when changing things up can make a big difference.

For example, if you see fish splashing at the surface but your fly isn’t getting their attention, try using a smaller one. When you’re using nymphs (which are underwater flies), and a fish comes close but doesn’t bite, switching to a different fly with a bead might entice them.

And if you’re fishing with streamers for bass and nothing’s happening, consider changing the color of your streamer or how you’re moving it through the water. Sometimes, these small changes can make a big impact and get the fish interested.

But there are days when fish just aren’t interested in anything. On those days, enjoy the peacefulness of fishing and the time spent with your fishing pals. It’s all part of the adventure!